“Style.Uz 2010”: a look at the week-long artistic spectacular

October 15, 2010

Art Week "Style.Uz" – a far-reaching culture, art and fashion project – took place in Tashkent from October 9 to October 14, 2010. This annual major event has drawn increasing international attention to Central Asia and is seen as a crossroads of arts, tradition and modernity. Now in its fifth year, the project offers amazingly diverse events and is attended by a host of international celebrities. “Style.Uz” is a brainchild of Gulnara Karimova and is organized by the Fund Forum.

This year the Art Week presented exhibitions of young and famous artists; runway shows by Uzbek and foreign fashion designers; a Festival of National Dress; a theatre festival, cultural conferences, contests for budding designers; sporting dance competitions; master classes by art and fashion professionals; charitable events, club shows and performances by international pop stars. The Art Week kicked off with the International Photo Biennale “TashkentAle 2010”.

The guests of the fifth Art Week include: famous artists Catherine Metais (France), Marco Perego (Italy), Alexander Ishenko (Russia); fashion designers Domenicco Vacca (Italy), Agatha Ruiz De La Prada, Fernando Lemoniez (Spain), Helen Yarmak, Igor Chapurin (Russia), Magali Raineri (France), Laura Miles (UK), Chisato Tsumori, Naoshi Sawayanagi (Japan), representatives of Chanel, Stéphane Rolland, Balmain (France), Brioni, Max Mara and Salvatore Ferragamo (Italy) fashion houses, fashion duo Basso & Brooke (UK); representatives of Chopard, de Grisogono and Fabergé jewelry labels (Switzerland); tenor Jose Carreras (Spain), music groups Chico & The Gypsies (France), Montefiori Cocktail (Italy), Serebro (Russia), Modjo (France), DJ Tom Boxer (Romania); actors Andrei Panin (Russia), Gennadiy Pachis (Greece), Armand Assante (USA); film directors Lee Hun (China), Erkin Yalgashev (USA); general producer of Russian Fashion Week Alexander Shumskiy, senior director of Tokyo Fashion Week Kenji Yamazaki; musician, producer, poet and writer Huang Liaoan; vice president of China Fashion Association professor Yuanfen Liu; representative of the Cambridge Central Asia Forum Dr Sidharth Saxena; independent auctioneer Alexei Zaitsev (Russia); representative of “Duke`s Auctioneers” Matthew John Denney (UK); stylists Michael Charalambous (UK), Vitaliy Divnin (Russia) and Tatevik Kocharyan (Switzerland); media representatives: president of “Les Editions Jalou” Marie-Jose Jalou (France), head of the French edition of “L'OFFICIEL” Benjamin Eymere (France), producer of “Токуо Fashion Express NHK World” Naoki Yokoya (Japan), producer of the Japanese TV channel “Fashion Channel News” Hiroshi Sugai, fashion journalist Oda Akira, representatives of IO Donna magazine (Italy), "Russia" TV channel, Argumenty nedeli weekly newspaper as well as participants of the scientific conference of MEROS Association of Antiques of Uzbekistan, photographers and many others.

Day one

International Photo Biennale “TashkentAle 2010” was the first in the series of events held as part of Art Week. TashkentAle brought together works by contemporary photographers from 38 countries working in various genres and styles. To participate in the Biennale, the artists submitted works on the following themes: a) “Man, tradition, environment”. As the name suggests, these will include works of a documentary genre demonstrating traditions of nations of the world, architectural, climatic and nature features of these nations` environments as well as genre and psychological portraits of people of a particular society; b) “Wings of experiment”. The theme calls for innovative and unconventional methods in artistic photography: computer experiments, extraordinary ways of filming and print, and works that are avant-garde in form and content; c) “The Young and the Bright”. These include works depicting extraordinary young people, prominent personalities, young talents as well as highlights in the lives of young people.

British fashion duo Basso & Brooke`s Capsule Collection. Basso and Brooke presented a collection inspired by their trip to Uzbekistan in 2009. It features dresses made of traditional ikat fabrics. They represent an exciting mix of clashing digital prints in a spectrum of colors. Visitors could see a myriad of prints processed in the backdrop and then reinforced onto the garments. The collection is a combination of ancient oriental patterns and digital printing techniques, and is a result of collaboration between British designers and Uzbek textile masters undertaken under a collaborative project of the British Council and the Fund Forum.

Salvatore Ferragamo master class. Maurizio Dini, a designer of Italy`s fashion label Salvatore Ferragamo, demonstrated the process of making a handbag. Using a strip of natural leather and glue, he created a handbag without a single seam.

French artist Catherine Metais` solo exhibition. Composed of about 20 works, the show offered paintings, installations, plastic items, and photo collage. While Metais` works bear simple laconic titles, they are modern and are laden with emotion. The original combinations of colors, straight and broken lines, paper and plastic artworks, buckets and umbrellas represent the creative mind of this French artist, who lives on an island in the Atlantic Ocean.

Italian artist Marco Perego`s solo exhibition. Marco Perego is known for his iconoclastic, controversial and thought-provoking works. The pictures that were on display at Tashkent House of Photography featured beasts in their unique manifestations of natural behavior. The creatures in the works represent various expressions of people`s emotional states. Perego`s solo shows have been held in the US, Italy and the UK. The list of buyers of his works includes Giorgio Armani, Dolce & Gabbana, Hard Rock Café heir Harry Morton and Fiat heir Lapo Elkan.

Day two

The Traditional Art, Design and Fashion Exhibition. The exhibits included works by craftsmen from across Uzbekistan as well as leading fashion and design labels. Here, diverse categories of arts formed a single cultural space where elements were linked with each other and presented a harmonious blend. This year, the part of the exhibition dedicated to traditional arts in Uzbekistan was composed of works by young craftsmen who participated in “Navqiron O`zbekiston” Festival of Traditional and Contemporary Arts, which is organized by the Fund Forum every two years in an effort to support budding artists.

Presentation “Japan`s Quest for Harmonious Society: Making Fashion Universal” by Professor Oda Akira of Tokyo College of Fashion and Japanese fashion designer Naoshi Sawayanagi. Universal Fashion is a new trend in the fashion industry. It seeks to create comfortable and fashionable clothes for all segments of populations, including people with disabilities. In his turn, Naoshi Sawayanagi showcased his new collection made in the style of universal fashion. In creating the designs, Sawayanagi used seamless clothes techniques.

Chisato Tsumori Runway Show. Japanese designer Chisato Tsumori presented over 20 designs. Tsumori`s designs represented Mediterranean flairs mixed with unusual and unique patterns. She used her trademark stripes and "Kawainui" motif, as well as various splashes of color. The collection is modest, yet has a distinct, universal flair. The designs can be worn by women of all ages, and are non-exclusively for Central Asian buyers.

Agatha Ruiz De La Prada Runway Show (Spain). The clothes by Prada were cheerful, light and childlike. The fashion show presented dresses which are not for everyday wear, but that can be worn to a disco or a costume party. The collection mostly consisted of bright and flashy tones – pink, yellow, green, red, purple and red. It also included trendy accessories, like colorful sunglasses, bubbly bows and fancy wallets, which looked desirable.

Fernando Lemoniez Runway Show (Spain). Dresses by Lemoniez were simple, chic and glamorous. They mainly consisted of black, brown, blue and pastel tones – colors that are trendy and in high demand. The first part of the show included “everyday clothes”, which were quite simplistic in design, but very stylish and high fashion. The hair-dos and make-up of models a-la Marilyn Monroe highlighted the beauty and individuality of the designer`s creations.

“Aristotle`s Mystery” Exhibition of Young Artists. The Greek philosopher Aristotle stated that the size and form of the object being portrayed should be in sync with reality. Each artist represented at the exhibition tried to express their own understanding of Aristotle`s postulate in the form of the cow. The exhibition consisted of 15 works by artists aged 25 to 45 and presented various contemporary art techniques, from painting and video art to installations and fashion design.

“Signs of Time” International Exhibition of Contemporary Art. The exhibition opened at Ming O`rik Archeological Monument and showcased works by famous artists from Uzbekistan, France, Russia, Kazakhstan, Tajikistan and Azerbaijan, providing their visions of Arcadia. In ancient times, Arcadia was a rustic, secluded area, and its inhabitants became proverbial as primitive herdsmen leading simple pastoral unsophisticated yet happy lives. The theme of the exhibition “Even in Arcadia I exist / do not exist” (a changed version of the Latin phrase Et in Arcadia ego – “Even in Arcadia I exist”) captures the essence of the exhibition. For a contemporary artist, Arcadia is a world of illusion that inspires them. Against the backdrop of the archeological monument, the works on display looked particularly contrasting

Underground Youth Fashion Show. One of the pivotal events held annually as part of “Style.Uz” Art Week, “Underground” is a fashion event where young fashion professionals showcase stunning collections to highlight their individual and unparalleled styles. This time the designers injected romantic femininity and male brutality as well as mischief and playfulness into their collections.

Presentation of the first issue of “L`Officiel Central Asia” with the owner “Les Editions Jalou” Marie-Jose Jalou and head of the French edition of “L`Officiel”, Benjamin Eymere. L`Officiel, the oldest of French fashion magazines, is published in France, Russia, China, India, Turkey, Japan, the United Arab Emirates, Brazil, Greece and Ukraine. Uzbekistan has now joined this list.

Day three

Master class by London College of Fashion (UK). Designers from London College of Fashion taught a master class to young designers at Style.Uz. Sarah Atkinson and Natalie Brown gave detailed presentations about design creation, teaching designers how to use simple techniques in creativity. Natalie showed young designers how to use techniques that famous designers like Marc Jacobs and Damir Doma use. The participants then had to create their own sketches and some of the most courageous and enthusiastic participants had a chance to demonstrate their skills on the stage with Natalie.

Round-table “Dialog: Education and Business”, organized by the Fund Forum and the British Council in Uzbekistan, brought together 250 people, including the UK Ambassador to Uzbekistan Rupert Joy, Director of the British Council Steve McNulty, London College of Fashion Director of Programmes Sarah Atkinson, Graduate Employment Officer at London College of Fashion Adam Watling as well as representatives of local universities, colleges, textile enterprises, boutiques, fashion houses and sponsors. The round-table focused on the needs of small and private business for high-caliber specialists as well as on issues related to the involvement of private businesses in the national economy and organization of high-quality education in Uzbekistan. The session also focused on the United Kingdom`s experience in this area.

Max Mara Runway Show (Italy). Max Mara has once again disproved the widespread opinion that beauty requires sacrifice. The label`s designers have put a lot of effort into making sure that a woman on the lookout for clothes for work, rest and a party does not have to choose between beauty and comfort. Max Mara dedicates its products to women who enjoy rediscovering a refined yet dynamic and practical look in everyday life. The fashion label presented a collection that combined Italian classics. The first part of the show contained all the aspects that set Max Mara apart from other prominent fashion brands. The V-neck overcoats and knitted dresses of grey, black and terracotta colors boldly claimed they make women feel free, confident and elegant. Then followed the label`s SportMax pieces. This part of the collection emphasized color and accessories.

“Campaign 14” dedicated to the fight against breast cancer. Several lots went under the hammer at a fundraising auction titled “Campaign 14”. The proceeds from the auction will go toward treatment of women diagnosed with breast cancer and other cancerous diseases. Fourteen women in need of urgent treatment (one from each of Uzbekistan`s 12 regions, Tashkent city and the Republic of Karakalpakstan) were selected during previously organized breast cancer fight events. The criteria for selecting the women included their financial income, widowhood, single-parent status and the number of children along with medical checkup results. It is these 14 women who will benefit from the charitable auction. The eight lots put up for sale included exclusive designs and pieces from famous Uzbek fashion designers` collections as well as accessories and home interior items. The participants also had the opportunity to buy bracelets, necklaces, badges, and various pink-ribbon items, which will also contribute to the ongoing efforts to fund treatment of women who have breast cancer.

The closing ceremony of the International Theater Festival “Theatre.UZ/2010” was held in the form of a gala concert. The concert kicked off with a performance by the Israeli trio Ofer Peled, who presented several jazz numbers on oriental and classical themes. Then followed a potpourri of local and foreign plays staged in Tashkent theatres throughout the Festival from October 2 to 11. The participating countries included Russia, Ukraine, Italy, Israel, Greece and Uzbekistan which presented five plays, including a lively poetry and love song evening, an exhibition of scriptwriters and a classical opera.

Auction organized by Uzbekistan`s MEROS Association of Antiques and UK`s Dukes Auctioneers. Titled “Textile, the Guardian of Tradition”, the auction was given the goal of drawing public attention to problems in preserving and collecting artifacts of historical and cultural significance, advocating national cultural values, developing auction related activity in Uzbekistan and making an impact on pricing policy for antiques. The funds raised during the auction will go toward archeological research and excavations carried out by MEROS Association in an effort to study historical and cultural legacy. This project involves leading archeologists, historians and scholars as well as young specialists and history major students in Uzbekistan.

Day four

International scientific conference “Preservation of Historical and Cultural Heritage: Theory, Practice and Collecting” focused on the comprehensive study of historical and cultural legacy and collecting historical artifacts. The conference was attended by archeologists, historians, philosophers, ethnographers and arts professionals from Uzbekistan, Spain, Russia, Azerbaijan, Turkmenistan, Kazakhstan, France, Japan, Egypt, USA and Germany. Almost all participants presented their speeches in the form of detailed presentations providing not only photographic material, but also historical facts. Each of the professionals constructively mapped out a particular problem and proposed ways of addressing it.

The archeological exhibition “Kanka: the Past and the Present”. To highlight Tashkent`s historical and cultural legacy, the Art Week offered an archeological exhibition titled “Kanka: the Past and the Present”, which presented finds unearthed during archeological excavations carried out at Kanka ancient city (11th-12th c.) by a group of Uzbek scholars in 2009-2010. The exhibits included images of the city`s citadel, fragments of ancient structures, the area before the excavations were launched, coins, ceramics as well as information stands.

Press conference with organizers, guests and participants. The conference was attended by over 200 local and international journalists, and turned into a dynamic dialog between the panel and the media. The conference panel was composed of Professor Gulnara Karimova, the author of the Art Week “Style.Uz” and chairperson of the Fund Forum`s Board of Trustees; UK Ambassador to Uzbekistan Rupert Joy; head of the British Council in Uzbekistan Steve McNulty; the president of “Les Editions Jalou” publishing house Marie-Jose Jalou (France); the president and founder of de Grisogono jewellery label Fawaz Gruosi (Switzerland); fashion designers Tsumori Chisato (Japan), Igor Chapurin (Russia), Domenico Vacca (Italy), Alexei Kanishka (Uzbekistan), a representative of Balmain fashion house (France); Uzbek artist Zaur Mansurov (Uzbekistan); the rector of Tashkent Institute of Textile and Light Industry Halida Kamilova; the artistic director of the Youth Theater of Uzbekistan Nabi Abdurakhmanov; choreographer Sergei Zlotnikov; academician of the Uzbekistan Academy of Arts Professor Akbar Khakimov; and the vice-president of the China Fashion Association Professor Yanfen Liu. The questions asked by journalists focused mainly on the panel members` professional activities, the Art Week, Uzbek national culture and arts, as well as national and international projects overseen by the Forum and its partners.

Igor Chapurin Runway Show (Russia). The first of the show`s three sections featured mainly black dresses as well as a few wine-red pieces. One conspicuous element in these designs came from numerous frills and wide sleeves with cuts. Yellow dominated in the second part of the collection. The silk and muslin dresses with feather-light tails looked fascinating, leaving no room for dissonance. The designs also featured deep V cuts, silvery finish, strass and sequins. In the final part of his collection, the Russian fashionista seemed to have given preference to golden and silvery colors while accentuating unbelievably broad sleeves.

Balmain Runway Show (France). Balmain`s show presented not only its latest designs featuring glittering fabrics for modern women but also its most famous dresses since 1946, taking the audience back to the days of Marlene Dietrich, Katherine Hepburn and Brigitte Bardot, where femininity ruled the world of fashion.

Day five

The master class on the use of new computer software in carpet weaving was delivered by professionals from Germany and India. The two professionals introduced to those gathered two latest software programmes, “eXPIoRUG.net” and “Galaincha-computer graphics, innovation in carpet weaving”. The software helps select patterns, combine colors, and calculate the quantity and type of resources needed the creation of a carpet.

Domenico Vacca Runway Show (Italy). Italian fashion designer Domenico Vacca surprised the audience by demonstrating his Spring/Summer 2011collection which contained traditional Uzbek ikat. The show started with checkered and striped jackets, trousers and dresses, which looked incredibly attractive and suitable for daily wear. Domenico Vacca created this collection in collaboration with his wife Julia, a native of Uzbekistan.

Brioni Fashion Show (Italy). The audience at the Youth Creativity Palace, where the show was held, had the opportunity to see not only splendid evening dresses of various lengths but also trendy coats. The collection mainly consisted of black, grey and brown tones mixed with a few bright purple and wine-red details. The men in the audience had a chance to see stunning views of tuxedos combining classic details and some extravagant patterns and accessories.

Festival of National Dress. Over a hundred designs from 16 collections by 18 local designers were paraded on the runway, reflecting colorful Uzbek traditions from various regions of the country. The local fashion designers presented a contemporary vision of Uzbek national fabrics in clothes for daily wear and special occasions. The Guli collection designed by Gulnara Karimova, showcased during the Festival, made for a highlight of the show. This part of the show featured ikat-patterned denim and variations of stylish jackets from national fabrics combined with wide trousers, and provided a good example of the synthesis of European and Asian styles.

Day six

Master class by Russian painter Alexander Ishenko. Ishenko did a video presentation of his paintings and judged works by young Uzbek artists. He used works by students to help analyze and correct possible errors in them. Alexander Ishenko viewed a series of still-lifes, collage pieces, photos of interior designs, jewelry pieces as well as glass painting and suzani while commenting on these works. The master class was an opportunity for the young artists to get valuable professional feedback on and evaluation of their skills.

The finale of the Contemporary Choreography and Sporting Dance International Contest was held in the form of a gala concert. More than 500 young dancers, aged 5-25, from Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan and India performed in the gala concert. The selection rounds of the competition had been held at the Youth Creativity Palace and lasted for two weeks. Forty-three teams presented 77 dance numbers in categories such as street dance, modern dance (free style), national dance, acrobatics and calisthenics. The jury selected the 23 best numbers. Besides diplomas and prizes, the best teams were provided special development grants.

General Défilé by Dom Stilya (House of Style). Ten top fashion designers of Dom Stilya (House of Style) showcased their collections at the General Défilé, which closed the series of runway shows held during the Art Week “Style.Uz 2010. The closing show featured collections made of national fabrics by leading fashion designers of Dom Stilya, including Elina Hairullina, Arten Drobyshev, Yasmin Vakhidova, Markhamat Umarova, Saodat Muratkhojayeva, and UMI among others. The bulk of the designs were knee-length and feet-length evening dresses that combined black, white and pastel tones. Each designer relied on various fabrics and color combinations, adding various accessories such as bracelets, scarves, handbags and clutches. The show reached a crescendo when the behind-the-scenes host announced Guli collection, a collaborative effort between Gulnara Karimova, the owner of the brand, and designer Kanishka. In September, Gulnara Karimova presented the collection at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week in New York. The author of the project Art Week awarded the laureates diplomas, prizes and statuettes.

The concert by opera legend Jose Carreras. World-famous Spanish operatic singer Jose Carreras took the stage at the Palace of International Forums on October 14 in what was the culmination of the Art Week “Style.Uz 2010”. Music group Chico & the Gypsies welcomed the guests in the hall of the Palace performing Latin American melodies. Jose Carreras sang some of the most beautiful arias from his repertoire to the accompaniment of the Italian pianist Lorenzo Bavaj. Those invited to the concert included laureates of Nihol Prize, students of the State Conservatory of Uzbekistan, winners of international contests from Uspensky Music Academic Lyceum, soloists of Alisher Navoi Theater, laureates of international contests, Uzbek singers and actors, representatives of the State Theater of Operetta, students of Mannon Uygur Institute of Arts as well as departments of the Ministry of Culture and Sports Affairs of Uzbekistan among others. After the concert, Carreras gave an interview to a group of journalists.

Afterword

Art Week “Style.Uz 2010”, the biggest culture and fashion project in Central Asia, has come to an end. As the curtain falls on the fifth Art Week, it leaves all the guests and participants with expectations that next year it will bring new decorations, new names, new performances, showcase new trends and mix autumn melancholy with glittering events.